Cat Tips : Common indoor hazards and An indoor lawn
Common indoor hazards
Curiosity really can kill the cat, so closing doors, windows, bozes, and lids is a necessary precaution to keep a cat from potential hazards such as open washing machines and garbage cans. Breakeable objects, poisonous plants, and food should be kept out of your cat’s reach. Don’t leave small objects where your cat can swallow them. They could choke or poison your pet.
An indoor lawn
Grass is a good source of fiber for your cat. It also acts as a useful emetic, which will help your cat to regurgitate unwanted matter such as hairballs. If you keep your pet permanently indoors, provide it with some greenery to chew. This could be grass, catnip, thyme, sage, or parsley.
Good Scratching and Keep an indoor Cat happy
Cats, unlike some dogs, can live indoors quite contentedly, especially if they have never known any other life. If you keep your cat inside, make sure it has plenty of toys for amusement and exercise. Alternatively, buy two kittens at the same time, so that they can play with each other.
Cats sleep up to 16 hours a day, so if you give your cat a comfortable bed, it is likely to stay out of mischief. If you don’t provide your kitten with toys, it will become bored and restless and may start to destroy your possessions.
To prevent your cat ruining your furniture by scratching it, provide it with a scratching post. When your cat starts scratching, place its paws on the post. If your cat is allowed outdoors, it will probably find a piece of bark on which to sharpen its claws. A post impregnated with catnip and hung with toys makes a good scratching post.
Introduction Cats to other Pets
When you introduce a new kitten to the other pets in your household, feed them separately for the first few weeks and supervise their meetings. The most difficult introduction is that of a kitten to an older cat, which may feel threatened
- Safe heaven : When you first bring your kitten home, make sure it has an area of its own where it can feel save. Let the kitten acclimatize.
- Cat meet dog : Take control of the first meetings by keeping the dog on a leash, or by placing the cat in a small play pen. Once dog and cat are used to each other, they can safely be left alone.
- Cat meets cat : Allow the cat to sniff the kitten and, if the cat should attack, separate them immediately. It may take as long month for them to settle down.
- Cat meets rabbit : Supervise a kitten in the company of rabbits or guinea pigs; if a kitten climbs over a small animal, even in play, it may harm it. Do not let a small animal out of its cage if an adult cat is around.
Train a cat : establish routines
You cannot train a cat in the same way that you can traind a dog but, by establishing routines, you will make life easier for yourself and more enjoyable for your cat. It is important for your cat to recognize its name; by calling it at feeding and bedtime, it will soon learn to respond.
- Grooming : Groom a longhair at the same time each day after feeding is a good time. Groom a shorthair once a week at a regular time.
- Feeding : Feed your cat regularly in the same place and at the same time every day.
- Playing : Playtime is essential to a cat’s development, especially if your cat is an indoor cat. Spend 10-15 minutes a day playing with your cat.
- Sleeping : Place the bed in a quite spot. At first your cat may try to sleep on your bed. If you don’t want to encourage this, place the cat in its own bed and keep it in its “bedroom” for the night.
Examine your kitten
Think twice before you choose that adorable, helpless-looking kitten. Since a cat’s lifespan can be 15 years, buying a healthy kitten may save you many years of veterinary fees.
- The rear should be clean. Lift the tail gently and check for any signs of diarrhea or discharge
- The kitten’s ears should be clean and dry. If there is any dark colored wax or if the kitten is scratching, it may have ear mites. Never poke anything into the delicate ear canal
- Bright eyes, free from discharge, are a sign of a healthy kitten. Check that the third eyelid isn’t showing.
- The nose should feel velvery and slightly moist, and the nostrils should be free of any discharge. Listen to the kitten’s breathing. If it is unsteady, the kitten may have a viral infection.
- Pry open the kitten’s mouth. A healthy cat will have pale pink, uninflamed gums, white teeth, and odor free breath.
- The abdomen should be rounded but not pot bellied. When picked up, the kitten should feel a little heavier than it looks.
- The coat should be smooth, soft, and glossy. Part the coat to check for evidence of parasites or flea dirt.
How to Lift and Hold a Cat
How to lift a cat
Approach a cat cautiously. Do not grab it; ideally, let it approach you. Begin your contact with gentle stroking. When the cat is used to your touch, pick it up.
- Hold the cat with one hand under its chest and the other under its hindquarters. Let the sternum rest in the hand.
- Lift the cat gently drawing it toward your chest. Give full support to its hindquarters.
How to hold a cat
Most cats enjoy being picked up and held, although only on their terms. Usually, a cat does not like being held for more than a short time. If you stroke a cat while you hold it, it will be reassured. Once it starts to struggle, let it down. If you hold a cat against its will, it may bite or scratch you.
How to Choose a Cat : Part 2
Why a pedigree ?
Buy a pedigree if you aim to show or breed it. If you intend to show your pedigree, make this clear when you buy a kitten. Some pedigree kittens are not up to show standard, and the breeder will be able to identify potential winners. Since each pedigree breed has its own physical and behavioral characteristics, if you opt for a pedigree, you will have a good idea of how your kitten will look and behave as an adult cat. A major disadvantage, however, is the expense.
Why a nonpedigree ?
If all you want is a feline friend or family pet, choose a nonpedigree: as companions, they are no less superior than pedigree cats. An enormous variety of nonpedigree cats is available, although the majority have some type of tabby marking and coloring. The main advantage is that they are much less expensive to buy indeed you can often obtain them free
Where to buy a cat ?
If you are looking for a pedigree cat, go to a specialist breeder. Animal welfare societies are a good source of abandoned and lost cats or cats whose original owners have died. Alternatively, your vey may know of cats that need a good home.
Checkup and vaccination
As soon as you buy a kitten, register it with a vet. The best to choose a vet is to ask you cat owning neighbors to recommend one. It is essential to have your cat vaccinated against two potentially fatal viruses, Feline Enteritis and Feline Influenza, usually at nine weeks old. If you are buying an adult cat, check that it was vaccinated as a kitten, has since received regular boosters, and has an up to date certificate.
The vet will give your kitten a health check and provide you with a written health certificate. The vet may also questions about your cat’s behavior, unusual behavior in cats is often a symptom of illness.
Although vaccinations are not dangerous, they should be given to healthy kittens, they are not wholly effective in un healthy cats. After the initial shots, your cat will need further vaccinations three to four weeks later.
Register your pedigree kitten with appropriate cat authority. This is especially important if you intend to show it. Your vet can advise you on the procedure. If your cat is already registered, notify the authority of change of ownership
- Registration usually takes place when a kitten is five weeks old
- Register the cat’s name, details of coloring, and parentage
- If you buy a cat that is already registered, make sure that you are given the documentation
Unless you aim to breed your cat, you should have it neutered, she will come into heat several times a year, during which time she may mate. A full tom will stray, spray urine, and fight with other males. The operation is performed under anesthetic and take only a few days to heal.
A female should be spayed at four or five months old and never during estrus (heat). The operation removes the ovaries and the uterus and leaves a small skin wound. She may be kept overnight at the vet’s.
A male should be castrated at six months. The male’s testes are removed. There are normally no stitches and the cat will heal quickly. A male should not be neutered before its penis is fully developed.
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How to Choose a Cat : Part 1
Why buy a cat ?
A cat is a wonderful pet. It is entertaining, affectionate, and astoundingly self-reliant, although, like any pet, it requires proper care. Since a cat can live indoors and does not need to be taken for a daily walk, it is the ideal pet for a city-dweller. Cats make particularly good pets for children or the elderly.
Which Sex ?
Before making your choice, weigh the advantages and disadvantages of owning a male or female cat. The Female cat is more docile, playful, and affectionate than the male. The larger and more assertive male will stray and fight for possession of territory and the females within it. If, however, your male cat is neutered, it will become more docile and “female-like”
- Male versus Female : Once neutered, there are few behavioral diffences between a male and female cat
Kitten or Adult ?
A kitten is more demanding to look after than an adult cat. Playful and inquisitive, it will need careful watching, as well as litter and cat-indoor training. But a kitten is more adaptable than an adult cat and easier to introduce into your home, especially if you already have a pet. Also, a kitten, well-trained from an early age, will be less trouble to look after as it grow up than an older cat with ingrained habits.
- Playmate : Give a kitten plenty of toys to keep it occupied and, ideally, a playmate if you are often out during the day
- Motherly Love : If you decide to buy a kitten, do not take it away from its mother until it is fully weaned, usually at eight weeks old.
- Older Cat : Consider an older cat if you don’t want to rear a kitten. Older cats can be obtained from animal welfare shelters.
Why a Shorthair ?
A shorthaired cat will make fewer demands on your time than a longhaired cat; it is able to groom itself, so you will expend far less energy keeping its coat in good condition. Also, many of the coat problems that arise on a longhair, such as matted hair, are less likely to occur, and it is easier to tend to wounds and remove parasites.
- Self Grooming : You need to groom a shorthair once a week since it will manage the job well on its own.
- Attention Seekers : A famaous shorthaired breed is the Siamese. Known to be very vocal and demanding of human attention they are considered “doglike” in their devotion.
- On the prowl : Generally, shorthaired cats are more active and independent than longhairs, so if you lead a busy life a shorthair is probably preferable
Why A longhair ?
The spectacular coat of a longhair is its main asset. It requires daily brushing and untangling. If you do not groom your longhair daily, clumps of swallowed hair, know as hairballs, accumulate in its stomach, upsetting its digestion. However, the look and docile nature compensate for the grooming demands.
- Floppy Ragdoll : The ragdoll is particularly docile. Whenever picked up, it relaxes its muscles and flops into the carrier’s arms, hence its name.
- Semi longhairs : if you like the longhair’s appearance, but don’t have a time to groom daily, consider a semi-longhair, which has a long top coat but a much thinner undercoat